化粧陰影怎麼畫 彩粧小技巧

明星化粧師Katey Denno的陰影美粧

小技巧&

西方賺錢最多的美粧博主大盤點

Celebrity Make up Artist, Katey Denno give us Tips on Contouring

and

5 Western Beauty Bloggers with the Biggest Paychecks

不知不覺間，博主和CAA、Next、IMG這樣的明星經紀公司開始了密切地合作。

很多西方品牌在美粧博主/主播身上大下血本，每年平均投資近40萬美金。

YouTube上幾乎95%的美粧內容出於內容創作者（2015），這樣一來，視頻博主的地位愈發鞏固且佔據大量市場份額（全球範圍來看），對於那些不認為博客能夠影響銷量的人來説，看到那些擁有千萬粉絲陣容、每月至少賺得4萬美金的美粧博主的時候，是不是該反思一下呢？！

AD AGE盤點了以下掙錢最多的美粧視頻博主：
Its not for any reason that bloggers have started working closely with Blogging and even celeb agencies such as CAA, Next, and IMG.
Going into big bucks for the happy few, western brands are starting to dig out their deep pockets going up to 400 K USD/ year ( on average) to invest in beauty bloggers/vloggers.
With almost 95% of youtube’s beauty content being created by content creators (2015), vloggers behold a more powerful position and commercial stake every year ( a trend happening on a global level). For some who believe vlogging will not impact sales, they can think twice when seeing some of the highest payed beauty bloggers working their social media magic pushes their + 10 million fanbase and reching over 40K USD/Month as base salary.

According to AD AGE’s report, the top highest payed beauty vloggers for 2015/16 are the following:1. Yuya (lady16makeup)她是靠錄製視頻賺得最多的美粧博主，每月進賬約4.1萬美金，擁有1,200萬粉絲。Shes the highest payed beauty blogging reaching approx. 41K USD/ Month with +12 Million followers

2. Bunny Meyer (grav3yardgirl)Bunny擁有約650萬關注用户，她以搞怪逗趣的粧容和大膽的美粧嚐鮮吸引粉絲（比如：用棉花糖和奇多薯條卷頭髮），月入3.2萬美金。Bunny reaches out to approximately 6.5 million subscribers with her eccentric and playful makeup looks and crazy beauty trials ( such as curling your hair with marshmallows and cheetto chips) , she earns around 32K Month.

3. ZoellaZoella最近開通了自己的美粧頻道——Zoella，會推出一些美粧技巧並推薦一些親測產品。她擁有超過900萬關注用户，每月收入約2.7萬美金。Zoella recently launched her own beauty line and is more on the technical and very up close personal side of product recommendations. She has over 9 million subscribers and earns approximately 27K USD per month.

eauty101運營Rclbeauty101的Rachel擁有550萬關注用户，她可能是最接地氣的視頻主播之一，她常分享一些美粧救急技巧和快速上粧技巧，每月收入約2萬美金。Rachel of Rclbeauty101 has 5.5 million subscribers and is probably the most relatable vlogger, showcasing survival tips for beauty and fast easy DIY on the go tips. She makes over $20,000 a month.

5. Bethany MotaBethany Mota是一名獲得高度認可的美髮主播。儘管Ad Age稱她的月收入約1.5萬美金，但她其實還有別的吸金途徑，如：代言Aeropostale、參加《與星共舞》等。Bethany Mota is a beauty hair style blogger with high recognition amongst teens/tweens. Although Ad Age states she contributed to only approx. 15K USD on her monthly income, she is also cashing on other projects such as being the ambassador for Aeropostale and appearing on shows such as Dancing with the Stars.

6. Michelle Phan據業內人士稱Michelle Phan開創了美粧視頻的先河，是她引領了主播的潮流。在她成立了主推化粧品訂閲服務、市值5億美金的Ipsy公司後，YouTube視頻直播便不再是Phan的主要收入來源。據《福布斯》雜誌推算，她的年收入至少達300萬美金。2015年，Phan還入選了《福布斯》雜誌評選的30歲以下的30位精英榜，常年獲得青少年選擇獎的最佳互聯網時尚/美容明星提名。Professionals say that Michelle Phan is the pioneer of beauty bloggers, the one who really kick started the trend. Phans Youtub Vlogging projects are no longer her main source of income reaching 15K USD/Month , as she started her beauty sampling subscript ion service Ipsy which was recently valued at $500 million. Forbes calculated that she makes at least $3 million a year. In 2015, Phan was named on the Forbes 30 under 30 lists and is often nominated at Teen Choice awards for Web Star in Fashion and Beauty.

我認為Michelle的成功離不開她的決心和先前努力，也取決於她那張中西合璧的臉型，使得千千萬萬的亞洲姑娘找到了適合亞裔粧容的突破口，不再侷限於西方美粧博主。（東西方面部特徵的差異太大）。在北京的那段時間，我們有幸同明星化粧師Katey Denno一起暢聊她的陰影粧容之道，通過視覺科學和美粧錯覺打造理想的“3D”效果。

I think that not only Michelle’s determination and previous hardships lead her to be successful but also the fact that she has this chameleon like face shape of western and Asian traits where she was able to give advice to the millions of Asian girls who find it hard to look up to western beauty bloggers for advice ( just because the dimensions and propositions of the facial features are so different).

During our time in BJ we also chat with Celeb Stylist Katey Denno and her take on contouring in order to create that desired “ 3d” effect through visual science and optical illusions with makeup.

Katey Denno的陰影美粧小技巧Katey Denno’s Quick Tips on Contouring

“我很喜歡在臉部特定區域打上高光，首先就是鼻樑部位。根據個人膚質以及底粧種類，你可以靈活選擇高光粉或高光霜打造陰影美粧。”“One of the things I love to do is start off by putting highlighter in certain areas, highlighting first down the nose. For contouring, you can use either powder andorcream, it really depends on your skin

texture and what you already have on." Denno says.

如果你是油性肌膚，儘量避免使用高光粉，我會以高光霜為主，最後刷少量高光粉來增強效果。倘若你不是乾性膚質，輕盈型高光霜便是個不錯的選擇。我們常常會以歐美標準來衡量粧感，嘗試着如法炮製到亞洲面孔上，這一點很不科學，不同的臉型應該搭配不同的畫法。“Instead of using powder for your skin as its already very luminous, I would use cream instead for your contour and finish with some hints of powder only to highlight. Also given that your skin is not dry light cream is a nice choice. We're often looking as Western standards for contouring and trying to apply them to the Asian figure, which really doesn’t make sense; it should be based on the face shape and type”.

Katey在我的顴骨處輕輕地打上金色高光，接着在距離鼻側外兩指之寬的部位打造出自然的腮紅粧效。“首先面帶微笑，記得重點是顴骨凸出部位的中心，再逐漸暈染開，你永遠不想把腮紅畫在距鼻側兩指之寬內的位置，這樣很容易和鼻子上的粧容暈到一起。”接下來，她為我深化眉色，使其成為深棕色/黑色，並在眉尾處稍作延長以修飾臉型。最後用植村秀睫毛夾營造捲翹睫毛，“每個人的畫法都不一樣”她眨了眨眼睛。She then covers a subtle golden highlight close to the cheek bones and covers two fingers beside the side of my nose for natural blush effect, “first smile and always start with the middle center of the highest part of your cheek bones and then blend it out, you never want to put blush closer than your two fingers as it will blend into the nose in a mashed up way.” she says as she then darkens the eyebrows to an almost dark brown/black look creating a slightly longer tail to frame the face. For the last touch she finished with the iconic eyelash curler from Shu Uemura , “they are not all the same” she winks.

“適量打造高光和陰影，有助於重塑面部輪廓，對於西方人來説，打造柔和的光影輪廓很重要，使得稜角不會過於分明。我很高興這一美粧技巧能夠風靡起來，不再是我們後台拍攝寫真的專屬” Katey Denno説。“The right amount of contouring and shading can really change peoples face, for western faces, its important to create a lighter contouring so it does not look to heavy. I’m really happy that this beauty trend has gotten out to the mass instead of us only using it backstage for photoshoots for the models face and body.” says Denno.

如今轉戰洛杉磯的她曾為很多明星大咖塑造粧容，如：Jessica Beil, Candace Swanpoel, Gwyneth Paltrow, Susan Sarandon, Amber Heard, Amanda Seyfried, Vanessa Hudgens, Mindy（《明迪煩事多》）, Cobie Smulders, Jaime Kingand, Julianne Moore等。

Recently transferring to LA, Denno has worked closely with entertainment A-List celebs such as Jessica Biel, Candace Swanepoel, Gwyneth Paltrow, Susan Sarandon, Amber Heard, Amanda Seyfried, Vanessa Hudgens, Mindy (The Mindy Project), Cobie Smulders, Julianne Moore, Jaime Kingand, and more.

Katey Denno’s Celebrity Clients

陰影美粧女皇Contouring Queens

Kim Karda

shian有着吹彈可破的肌膚、高聳的顴骨，毋庸置疑，她就是陰影美粧的女皇，今年夏天她卻對美版Elle正式聲明自己玩膩了陰影美粧<除了鼻子部位>，想要嘗試一些自然粧感，咱們就拭目以待吧！Kim Kardashian, with her ever-glistening skin and permanently chiseled sky high cheekbones, is the unchallenged queen of contouring where she officially stated this summer to Elle US that she is totally over contouring, lets see about that in a couple of months and desires to go a bit more a GLAM-MA

“新晉魅力女神爆紅網絡”Comsopolitan評，居住在敬老院的80歲高齡奶奶Livia Glam-Ma近來備受關注，主流媒體爭相報道她的陰影美粧，視其為高光紅人，塗上亮色脣彩的她看起來就像是個專業化粧師，更別提她能順應時尚步調，緊跟社交“instagrammer”的潮流。“The latest beauty queen breaking the internet” says Comsopolitan, 80 year old, Livia Glam-Ma lives in a nursing home and has been seeked by key media for her countering looks, seeing as her highlighter pops like there's no tomorrow and she rocks a bright lip like a total pro, needless to say shes in tune with the trends as well as being a social media “instagrammer” phenomenon.

弄巧成拙的陰影美粧Contouring Gone Wrong

當然凡事都有個度，過猶不及從來都不是件好事……除非你想以“變裝皇后”的身份登場。（那我是完全沒有意見！）Of course, like anything in the world, abusing and overdoing is never a good thing…ss you want to go on stage for a drag queen show (which is really totally cool by me if thats the look your going for)

化濃粧前一定要記得使用潔面霜之類的產品做好皮膚清潔工作，祛除面部多餘的油脂和角質，還原清爽的臉部肌膚。

酷暑當頭，保持皮膚水潤柔軟的同時也要避免太過油膩。類似於Nerium抗衰老面霜（日/晚霜）一類的護膚品雖然味道不盡如意人，但鎮靜肌膚、清爽潤滑的效果卻是槓槓的。它家的眼霜十分厚重，你只需在眼部輪廓周圍輕摸一點即可。

It's important that before your start all this heavy contouring makeup to use cleansing products and creams to get rid of any excess makeup, oil, dirt on your face to start with a clean canvas for your face.

In the midst of summer heat, keep your skin moisturized and soft while avoiding it to be too oily. Products like Nerium Age Defying Creams (day/night) dont have the best smell but they give off a smooth non oily finish that really firms the skin at the same time. Its eye serum is extremely thick and should only be used slightly around the contours of the eye.

如果你的肌膚瑕疵較多，理膚泉的潔面套裝也是個不錯的選擇。我親自嘗試過，它能有效清潔毛孔。我個人最喜歡的三款分別是温和收斂噴霧（藍瓶）、温泉舒緩噴液和痘痘清乳液，針對中性偏油性肌膚的人，這幾款可謂黃金選擇。

If your skin has more some more in depth imperfections, La Roche Posay’s purifying treatment kit is a good alternative. I’ve tried it myself where it really cleans your pores. My favourite three fave products were the SEROZIN sulfate soothing spray ( blue bottle) , thermal refreshing spring water, and the EFFACLAR K (+1) which is really great for medium to oily skin.